Jo perinteeksi muodostunut kesän Tanskan-matka piipahdettiin tällä kertaa Visingsön-lenkin kautta. Etelä-Vätternillä varsin lähellä Jönköpingiä sijaitsevaa saartahan oli tullut jo monta kertaa ohi ajaessa ihmeteltyä, mutta nyt oltiin kohdalla sopivasti niin, että aikaakin oli ihan hyvin joten päästiin saarelle saakka!
14 kilometrin pituisella saarellahan on historiaa, mutta lopulta en edes osannut arvata miten paljon sitä olikaan. Siellä voisi siis viettää aikaa kauemminkin! Saarelle pääsee myös autolla, mutta itse teimme niin, että jätimme auton mantereen puolelle Grännaan ja menimme lautalla yli. Liikkumiseen saaren puolella käytimme sitten vuokrafillareita joita sai heti rannasta -pyöräilyinfra oli oikein kivassa kunnossa ja saarellahan ei juuri minkäänlaisia mäkiä edes ole.
During our traditional summer trip to Denmark and back we dropped by at Visingsö island, which is situated quite close to the town of Jönköping. We had been looking at the island quite a few times as we had driven by during our previous trips, but this time we had enough time to actually visit the island!
The siland is quite large, 14 kilometers long. I had checked out some island's interesting historical sites long before we were even in Sweden so I was well aware that the island has a lot of history, but I really did not have a proper idea on how much history there indeed is. One could easily stay there longer than a few hours! The island is accessible by car too, but we decided to leave our car to the other shore and use rental bikes to get around in the island (they're available right in the harbour). The biking routes were in a very good condition and the island doesn't really have any hills, so biking was easy.
During our traditional summer trip to Denmark and back we dropped by at Visingsö island, which is situated quite close to the town of Jönköping. We had been looking at the island quite a few times as we had driven by during our previous trips, but this time we had enough time to actually visit the island!
The siland is quite large, 14 kilometers long. I had checked out some island's interesting historical sites long before we were even in Sweden so I was well aware that the island has a lot of history, but I really did not have a proper idea on how much history there indeed is. One could easily stay there longer than a few hours! The island is accessible by car too, but we decided to leave our car to the other shore and use rental bikes to get around in the island (they're available right in the harbour). The biking routes were in a very good condition and the island doesn't really have any hills, so biking was easy.
Ensimmäinen kohde oli Brahekyrkan. Kirkko oli rakennettu paikalle jo 1100-luvulla ja keskiajalla se tunnettiin Ströjan kirkon nimellä. Kirkkosali oli käytännössä uudelleenrakennettu 1600-luvulla jolloin saarella oli Brahe-suvun Visingsborgin kartano ja muita omistuksia. Kirkossa on myös Brahe-suvun hautoja 1500-luvun lopulta 1600-luvun puoliväliin. Vanhempaakin kerrostumaa on kirkossa runsain määrin nähtävillä, heti eteisessä vastassa oli 1400-luvun maalauksia, ja varsin messevillä takorautakoristeluilla varustettu sakastin ovi lienee kirkon alkuperäinen 1100-luvun ovi. Yksityiskohtana, ovessa on näyttävien koristeiden lisäksi tekijän riimuin kaiverretut terveiset, "Anders teki nätin oven". Ei vastaan sanomista siinä.
Our first target was Brahekyrkan (Brahe church). The church was first built in the 12th century when it was known as Ströja church, but it was substantially reworked later in the 17th century when the rich and influential Brahe family had a manor nearby. The church also has burials of some notable members of the Brahe family. Some features of the medieval church still remain, though, in the entrance there are 15th century painting on walls and roof, and sacristy door is apparently the original 12th century door. As a detail, the 12th century craftsman left his greetings, it says in runes "Anders made a pretty door". Indeed he did.
Our first target was Brahekyrkan (Brahe church). The church was first built in the 12th century when it was known as Ströja church, but it was substantially reworked later in the 17th century when the rich and influential Brahe family had a manor nearby. The church also has burials of some notable members of the Brahe family. Some features of the medieval church still remain, though, in the entrance there are 15th century painting on walls and roof, and sacristy door is apparently the original 12th century door. As a detail, the 12th century craftsman left his greetings, it says in runes "Anders made a pretty door". Indeed he did.
Pyhäinjäännöslipas 1200-luvulta. Pyhimystä itseään ei luultavasti tunneta. ~~~ 13th century reliquary. The saint is apparently unknown. |
Pyhä Birgitta aivan 1500-luvun alusta. ~~~ Early 16th century St. Birgitta |
Sakariston komea 1100-luvun ovi. ~~~ Very handsome 12th century door to sacristy. |
Maria Magdalena noin vuodelta 1500. ~~~~ Mary Magdalene from c. 1500. |
1400-luvun kattokoristeet kirkon eteisessä. ~~~ 15th century roof paintings in the entrance. |
Saaren aivan eteläkärjessä sijaitseva Näsin linna on Ruotsin ensimmäinen kuninkaallinen asuinlinna, ja sen kukoistuskausi ajoittuu 1100-luvulta 1300-luvun alkuun, samalla se on yksi Ruotsin vanhimmista maallisen vallan kivirakennuksista. Linnassa on useampi kuningas aikoinaan paitsi elänyt, myös menehtynyt. Aikoinaan valtakunnan voimakkaimmaksi linnaksikin sanottu Näsin linna kohtasi loppunsa luultavasti Tanskaa vastaan käydyssä taistelussa 1318, jonka jälkeen sitä ei enää korjattu. Linnan osia on paljolti sortunut järveen, joten nykyisin nähtävillä on vain osia kahdesta tornista ja niiden välissä olevasta muurista. Aikoinaan linnan ympärillä on ollut myös satama ja kylä. Nykyistä elämää linnassa edustavat pääskysperheeet :)
Situated in the very southernmost tip of the island, Näs castle is the first royal castle in Sweden. It flourished from the 12th century to the early 14th century, and it is one of the oldest non-religious stone buildings in Sweden. Several kings have had their residence in Näs castle, and also it is the place where quite a few of them had died. Näs castle was once known as the strongest fortress in the land, but it suffered greatly in a Danish attack in 1318 and was not repaired after that. The castle has partially collapsed to the lake Vättern, nowadays only parts of two towers and a wall connecting them can be seen. Originally there was a large harbour and a village in the immediate surroundings of the castle, now a large flock of swallows thrive there :)
Situated in the very southernmost tip of the island, Näs castle is the first royal castle in Sweden. It flourished from the 12th century to the early 14th century, and it is one of the oldest non-religious stone buildings in Sweden. Several kings have had their residence in Näs castle, and also it is the place where quite a few of them had died. Näs castle was once known as the strongest fortress in the land, but it suffered greatly in a Danish attack in 1318 and was not repaired after that. The castle has partially collapsed to the lake Vättern, nowadays only parts of two towers and a wall connecting them can be seen. Originally there was a large harbour and a village in the immediate surroundings of the castle, now a large flock of swallows thrive there :)
Visingsö castle at Näs - jkpg.com
Vätterninkin vesi on laskenut maanpinnan kohoamisen seurauksena, mutta ilmeisesti sitten varsin matalalla saarella on ollut neoliittisellakin kivikaudella sen verran maata näkyvissä että se on ollut kiinnostava. Reitin varrella Näsin linnasta Kumlabyn kirkolle tien vieressä oli neoliittinen, noin 2000 eaa ajoittuva kiviarkku-hautarakenne, vieressä olevassa kyltissä mainittiin saarella olevan toisenkin samanlaisen.
Due to the upthrust the water level in Vättern has sunken during the millenia. Visingsö island is very shallow with no real hills or such, but apparently enough land was visible during the neolithic stone age that the island was interesting to some people. On our way from Näs castle to Kumlaby church there was a neolothic stone cist grave dating to c. 2000 bce, and a plague next to it said there is another one just like it in the island as well.
Due to the upthrust the water level in Vättern has sunken during the millenia. Visingsö island is very shallow with no real hills or such, but apparently enough land was visible during the neolithic stone age that the island was interesting to some people. On our way from Näs castle to Kumlaby church there was a neolothic stone cist grave dating to c. 2000 bce, and a plague next to it said there is another one just like it in the island as well.
Kumlabyn kirkko ajoittuu myös 1100-luvulle, kuten Brahekyrkankin -sillä erotuksella, että Kumlabytä ei myöhemmin remontoitu samalla tavoin eli tässä on myös keskiaikaista sisustaa jäjellä -vaikka tämä ei kirkkona koko aikaa ollutkaan toiminut, tila on ollut käytössä kouluna ja tähtitieteen observatoriona 1600-1800-luvuilla. Tornin katolta olikin hyvä havainnoida, sinne pääsi kiipeämään pientä maksua vastaan (hirmu jyrkät portaat!) ja näkymät ympäristöön olivat aivan esteettömät. Katsottiin tosin parhaaksi sitten kiivetä alas kun ukkonen ilmoitti lähestymisestään... 1400-luvulle ajoittuvat maalaukset kirkossa olivat erityisen näyttävät, edelleen varsin kirkkaat ja yksityiskohtaiset.
Kumlaby church dates to the 12th century just as Brahekyrkan originally did too -with the exception that Kumlaby did not go through the same renovations as Brahekyrkan did, so this church has surviving medieval interiors as well. The building has not always functioned as a church. during the 17th to the 19th century the church functioned as a school and an observatory. Observing stars would be nice from the church tower, I think, and one was allowed to climb the tower by paying a small fee (*really* steep stairs!). And there was a scenery indeed, as far as the eye can see! We decided to climb down, though, when we heard a thunder approaching... Surviving 15th century paintings in the church were especially fancy, very bright and detailed still!
Kuva/Photo M. Pulla |
Kuva/Photo M. Pulla |
1570-luvulla rakennettu, ajan myötä laajennettu ja 1718 palanut Visingsborgin linna oli Brahe-suvun omistuksessa lukuunottamatta aivan viimeisiä vuosikymmeniään. Aateliston omaisuuden reduktion jälkeen viimeiset vaiheensa linna toimi vankilana venäläisille sotavangeille. Linnan rakentamisessa kerrottiin käytetyn osin reformaation ja luostarien lopettamisen jälkeen Vätternin rannalla seisovan Alvastran luostarin tiiliä. Linnan aktiiviaikoina nykyisin seisovan päärakennuksen lisäksi alueella on ollut useita torneja ja sivu- ja talousrakennuksia, rakennukset muodostivat kaikkineen nelikulmaisen piha-alueen. Näistä näkyy jonkin verran maassa jälkiä jos osaa katsoa -aivan ilmiselviä ne eivät ole. Päärakennusta saa tyytyä ihastelemaan ulkoa päin, mutta se kannattaa -kyseessä on kuitenkin ehdottoman kaunis paikka ja komeat rauniot!
Built in the 1570s, extended in the 17th century and finally burned down in 1718, Visingsborg castle belonged to the rich and powerful Brahe family save the very last few decades. After the great reduction in 1680 when the lands belonging to the nobility were returned to the crown, the castle functioned as a prison for Russian prisoners of war. When the castle was built, stones from Alvastra monastery (also in the shores of Vättern) were said to have been used after the reformation and closing down the monasteries. In its heyday Visingsborg castle had several towers and other buildings, now only traces of them remain in the ground if you know where to look. The main building is closed for public, one can only admire it from outside but it's totally worth it, it's such a beautiful place and the ruins are impressive!
Built in the 1570s, extended in the 17th century and finally burned down in 1718, Visingsborg castle belonged to the rich and powerful Brahe family save the very last few decades. After the great reduction in 1680 when the lands belonging to the nobility were returned to the crown, the castle functioned as a prison for Russian prisoners of war. When the castle was built, stones from Alvastra monastery (also in the shores of Vättern) were said to have been used after the reformation and closing down the monasteries. In its heyday Visingsborg castle had several towers and other buildings, now only traces of them remain in the ground if you know where to look. The main building is closed for public, one can only admire it from outside but it's totally worth it, it's such a beautiful place and the ruins are impressive!
Visingsö kartalla ~~~ Visingsö on map |
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