Now that my camera problems are in order and I get to upload photos once again, it's about time to share the excitement that was Spirals and bells from the coasts of the Baltic sea -ancient textiles seminar! It was arranged in 29th-30th October 2016 in Vanhalinna, Lieto, in a manor right next to an iron age hillfort. The spirals have definitely been discussed so much by the ancient textiles enthusiasts after the seminar, that I'm fairly sure I know what'll be the trendy choice of wear next summer :)
Seminaarista siis, alkusanat sanoi Pirkko-Liisa Lehtosalo-Hilander, suomalaisen tekstiiliarkeologian edelläkävijä. Oli melkoinen fangirl moment istua samassa pöydässä muunkin seminaarin ajan, mutta hävetti toisaalta aivan vietävästi kun flunssaa pukkasi päälle ja seminaarin omana sivuohjelmanani oli näin reipasta aivastelua ja niistämistä - taudin tila ei varmastikaan jäänyt muille läsnäolijoillekaan epäselväksi vaikka miten diskreetti yritti olla... Muuten, pahoittelen että tässä alussa varsinaisia seminaarikuvia on aika vähän, mutta esitelmänpitäjien powerpointeissa oli aika tavalla kopiosuoja-materiaalia, joten kaivelin sitten verkosta samasta aiheesta ja linkittelin ettei ihan jää kuvaosuus pimentoon sentään. Kuvalähde mainittu kyllä.
Alkusanojen jälkeen päästiin vauhtiin ja varsinaisiin luentoihin, ensimmäinen luento käsitteli Viron ensimmäistä varsinaista muinaispukurekonstruktiota, aivan vasta tehty. Riina Rammon (Tarton yliopisto) esittelemä vaatekokonaisuus perustui Kukrusen kalmiston (1100-1200-l.) talvella 2009-2010 tutkittuun hautaan nro 6, jossa makasi noin 40-50-vuotias naisvainaja. Pronssikoristeita naisen vaatteissa oli yllin kyllin, joten tekstiiliäkin oli säilynyt varsin komeasti. Luento-powerpointtien lisäksi vaatekokonaisuutta voi muuten katsoa Viron kansallismuseon blogissa!
As for the seminar, the opening words were spoken by Pirkko-Liisa Lehtosalo-Hilander, the grand old lady of Finnish textile archaeology, most famous for the Luistari excavations. It was certainly a fangirl moment to get to sit on the same table and chat casually with her (never met her before) -and at the same time I was most embarrassed by the fact that I had quite a flu going on then, and although I tried to be really discreet about it, I assume the whole table got to "enjoy" my almost-constant sneezing. Not awkward, not for the slightest bit... Oh, and I'm sorry for the lack of actual seminar photos in the beginning of the post, the slideshows contained so much copyrighted material that I thought it's safer to search the web for photos of the same subject and link them. Credits are properly given to the respective owners.
After the opening words it was time for the actual lectures. The first one was about the very first actual scientifically-made dress reconstruction in Estonia, a brand new one, by Riina Rammo (University of Tartu). It was based on the Kukruse burial ground (12th-13th cent.) grave no. 6 that was excavated during the winter 2009-2010. The deceased was a woman of 40-50 years. There was quite a lot of bronze decorations, and the bronze had caused the textiles to survive nicely too. The dress can also be seen in the blog of the National museum of Estonia.
Kukrusen puku Kansallismueon blogin kuvauksissa ~~~ The Kukruse dress in the National museum photoshoot |
The next lecture was by Ave Matsin (University of Tartu) and about the South-Eastern Estonian textiles and especially the cloaks of Siksala burial ground. The Siksala cloaks were indeed something to admire, a deceased might have had several very different types of ornate cloaks in the grave. There are also some other peculiarities to the Siksala graveyard too, for example the burial customs had remained almost unchanged for centuries, from the early 13th to the 15th century -and the burial ground had burials dating both before and after those dates too. In Siksala the textiles were also very well preserved, and the patterns in the tablet woven bands and weaving patterns in the fabric are still visible to the naked eye. There are, by the way, some lovely books about the Siksala burial ground freely available online, Siksälä Kalme 1 and Siksälä Kalme 2.
Viitan ennallistus Siksälästä, tekijä Ave Matsin. Kuva Mervi Pasanen. ~~~ Shawl reconstruction from Siksala, by Ave Matsin. Photo Mervi Pasanen. |
After that we had a lunch break, and during the break we witnessed some really epic photoshoots on the top of the Vanhalinna hillfort! After that it was time for lectures again, Jaana Ratas taught us a method of creating bronze spiral decorations the Estonian way. The tradition of bronze spiral decorations in Estonia continued far longer than it did in Finland, all the way until the 19th century, so the source material is somewhat different than in Finland where the material is from iron age graves. The Estonian spirals, by the way, are a lot smaller than the Finnish spirals! The method of creating the decorations the iron age way has been somewhat open to debate, however. Jaana Ratas introduced a plausible technique, where the spirals are constructed on a piece of birch bark! This technique was also taught in a workshop on the next day, they said it indeed required some precision!
Spiraalikoriste tekovaiheessa, nättiä ja pientä! Kuva Mervi Pasanen. ~~~ Spiral decoration almost finished, so cute and tiny! Photo Mervi Pasanen. |
The fourth lecture fr the day was an exception for the Estonian pretties discussed so far -we headed south and for the 13th-14th cent. Curonian textiles and their reconstructions in Latvia by Irita Zeiere (Latvijas Vestures Musejs). The excavations in Ance burial ground yielded in so much textiles material that it was possible to reconstruct a whole set of clothing, and hence the first Latvian dress reconstruction was made. The second dress reconstruction was based on the material from Laukmeiza burial ground excavated already in 1929. And apparently new reconstructions are on their way, in the 2000s Lejaskorg excavations have brought to light new material...
Viidenteen aiheeseen olikin sitten tullut jo hienokseltaan tutustuttua, paikalla oli Krista Vajanto kertomassa väitöskirjansa aiheesta eli väreistä ja värjäysmetodeista Suomen rautakaudella. Nopeasti yhteenvetäen Vajanto oli siis testauttanut parikymmentä rautakautista suomalaista tekstiiliä väriaineiden suhteen ja verrannut tuloksia kokeiluihin, tulokset olivat mielenkiintoisia! Näytteet viittasivat kovasti siihen, että käytössä oli kolme värjäysmenetelmää -puretetettuna värjääminen, kyyppivärjäys ja fermentoidut tanniinit, jotka antoivat punaisia sävyjä. Erityisesti tanniinit olivat sikälikin mielenkiintoisia, että ne paitsi värjäsivät, myös tekivät langan vetolujuudesta parempaa. Tulosten perusteella myös esitettiin, että rautakauden halutuin väri olisikin ollut musta -ei luonnonmusta vaan värjätty, joka vaati useita värjäyskertoja erilaisilla väriaineilla (muttei rautaa, joka haurastuttaa lankaa). Väitöskirja (englanninkielinen) on luettavissa kokonaisuudessaan Helsingin yliopiston sivuilta!
As for the fift lecture, the subject had been slightly touched by this blog already. Krista Vajanto spoke about her doctoral thesis concerning dyes and dyeing methods during the Finnish iron age. To sum it up, Vajanto had tested some twenty iron age textile samples for dye remains and compared them to samples she dyed herself -and the results were indeed interesting! The samples hinted on that three methods of dyeing were in use -mordant dyeing, vat dyeing and fermented tannins, which give reddish colour. Especially the tannins were interesting, because not only they dyed the yarn, they also strengthened it. The results also showed that the most wanted and appreciated colour during the late iron age would've been black -not natural black that comes directly from a sheep but dyed black which requires several different dyes and repetitions (but no iron, which is bad for the yarn). The doctoral thesis (in english) is available at the Helsinki University website.
Napajäkälävärjättyä villaa Mycopigments-blogissa. Vajannon näytekappaleet olivat aivan yhtä ärmäköitä! ~~~ Umbilicaria dyed wool in Mycopigments -blog. The dye samples by Vajanto were equally bright! |
The sixth lecture was geocraphically really close, as Heini Kirjavainen told us about a bear-shaped textile small-ish (height 16 cm) badge found right by the Turku castle during the 1939 excavations. Fancy materials and tiny embroidery -the badge seemed to have a history worth noticing. The bear shape itself had raised some questions, too, and seemed to lead to a theory that the badge had a connection to duke John (residing in Turku 1556-63). His heraldic shield does feature a bear, and duke John was also occasionally referred to as the Bear of Finland, Ursus Finlandicus. Also the radiocarbon dates of the textiles point nicely to the renaissance era. Perhaps the badge was a part of a flag?
Seitsemäs, toiseksi viimeinen päivän luento käsitteli Maikki Kariston tutkimaa Maskun Humikkalan haudan 31 (n. 1000-luvulta) lautanauhaa ja sen tutkimusta. Nauha oli herättänyt mielenkiintoa jo 1960-luvulla, jolloin Viivi Merisalo oli kutonut siitä version nauhakirjaansa, myöhemmin myös Seija Sarkki ja Egon Hansen olivat versioineet sitä. Osa nauhan kudontatekniikoista oli jäänyt vielä tuntemattomiksi, joten versioinnit olivatkin sikälikin puutteellisia -puolikaskierron "löytyminen" suomalaisissa nauhoissa edesauttoi tätäkin tutkimusta ja lopulta oikean lautamäärän löydyttyä ja alkuperäisen nauhan digikuvien ja useiden kokeilujen avulla kuvio alkoi valottua oikeanlaisena -työ vaan ei ole vielä lopussa vaan jatkuu edelleen nauhan fragmenttien lisätutkimuksella.
The seventh and the second last lecture of the day concentrated on tablet weaving and the problemns of recreating one single band. Textiles conservator and an experienced tablet weaver Maikki Karisto spoke about the tablet woven band in Masku Humikkala 31 -grave (11th cent.). The band had awoken some interest already in the 1960s, when Viivi Merisalo created a version of the band for her narrow wares book. Later Seija Sarkki and Egon Hansen tried to solve the puzzle, but as some of the techniques used in this band were unknown at the time, the reconstructions have their flaws. With the help of high resolution digital photos, discovering the half-turn was one step forward in the research of this band, and finding the right number of tablets also helped in creating the right look. The band still isn't totally solved, there are some fragments that haven't been thoroughly researched!
Humikkalan nauhan versiointi Adventures in historical tablet weaving -blogissa ~~~ The Humikkala band version in the Adventures in historical tablet weaving blog. |
The last presetation of the day was dealing with a very interesting topic that has so far been sort of left in the shade -late iron age men's clothing in Finland! Helena Honka-Hallila and Hannele Köngäs had been through the finds of South-western Finland and came up with an intepretation (men's graves often have next to zero textile remains, so focusing on one spescific grave was not an option). The main inspiration for this outfit was from Masku Humikkala grave 21 and its fancy bronze bell buttons, all 11 of them in a nice row! Bell buttons are known in one other find in Finland (Raisio Ihala grave XXIV) and the Baltic lands, but in no known grave there are this many. And there indeed are metal button in Scandinavian context, but no bells as buttons, so this is kind of unique! Since the cut of the Finnish iron age garments is mostly impossible to tell, finds from other parts of the world had been utilized. This set of clothing was still lacking a cloak -for now, it actally should be and will be included. I was sort of surprised, since the jacket made the whole outfit look superficially like it's younger by some centuries! All in all, I just have to say that this is wonderful pioneering work, and I'm really glad I got to see this slightly before it was officially introduced to the public in newspapers.
Seuraavana päivänä oli sitten vuorossa työpajoja ja työnäytöksiä! Varsinaisia työpajoja pidettiin spiraaleista, suomalaisista rautakautisista lautanauhoista ja neulakintaasta. Työnäytöksiä oli lisäksi pystypuilla kudonnasta, kehräämisestä ja villan kampaamisesta, Krista Vajannon värjäyskansiot katsottavana ja keskusteltavana, ja kankaan lopetuslautanauhan tekokin esiteltiin. Lisäksi näytillä oli mahtavia spiraaliesiliinoja ja -viittoja sekä valmiita suomalaisten rautakautisten löytöjen mukaan kudottuja nauhoja.
On the next day we had workshops and demonstrations on different sorts of crafts. The actual workshops were on bronze spirals, Finnish iron age tablet woven bands and nalbinding. Demonstrations, then again were numerous, weaving with an upright loom, spinning and combing wool, and making a tablet woven finish for a fabric. Krista Vajanto's dyeind samples were put to display and she eagerly told us about the dyeing processes. Also on display were the man's clothes we saw yesterday and the weaving samples. We also had a chance to admire up close several spiral-decorated aprons and shawls and readily-made tablet woven bands based on the Finnish late iron age finds.
Pöytä väärällään lautanauhaa, Mervi Pasanen kutoi. ~~~ Table filled with tablet woven pretties, woven by Mervi Pasanen. |
Nerokas pystypuumalli, oikeastaan siis lähestulkoon teltanrunko! ~~~ A brilliant way to construct the upright loom, it' s basically a tent frame! |
Spiraali-ihanuutta, Perniön muinaispuvun viitta. Tekijänä Orvokki Rosberg. ~~~ Spiral bling at its prettiest, the Perniö dress' shawl by Orvokki Rosberg. |
Ja tulihan seminaarista sitten tuliaisiakin. Olisi varmaan ihan hyvä paikka alkaa nyt opetella viroa...
And some books happened. Now, I suppose, could be a good time to learn estonian...